"Sitting on the beach at Leftovers at Sunset on the North Shore, watching John-John foil at Kamisugi's, I was mesmerized as I watched him killing it. Weaving in and out of the waves, he never fell or looked awkward in any way. That was six years ago, and the sport has taken off in popularity.
In short, foiling is a source of pure energy, fellowship, fire, stoke and an extreme challenge.
Pure energy: In the words of Ed D'Ascoli, 72 of Xcel wetsuits, "Once I started foil boarding I was hooked by the energy. I realized it is 100% physical and 100% mental. It is all about focus, instincts, and feeling your mind and body working together." At just 17 years old, Mala'e McElheny’s crossing from the North Shore to Kaua'i wasn't just a demonstration of remarkable endurance and skill; for Mala'e, it was "fun" and a confidence-building experience that has only fueled his appetite for greater challenges. Simeon Ke-Paloma, 36, a talented high school athlete and present-day waterman with 15 years of hardcore surfing and paddling who is helping push the sport to new levels of performance, describes downwinding as a three-dimensional chess match with the ocean—managing your speed, flight, energy, endurance and course while navigating and deciphering the energies of the ocean texture
Fellowship: I was living and surfing on the North Shore in the early '70s when Eddie Aikau brought the locals and the Aussies together and explained the concept of Aloha. Today there are pockets of foilers on all of the Islands working together to cooperate and compete in the best possible way. In the words of Edmund Pestana, 70, who has experienced the stoke of foiling throughout the surf world, "I'm overcome with passion for this sport and how well everybody is working together to establish the standards of cooperation and harmony."
Fire: What ignites the passion in foilers is the incredible feeling of flying above water, defying gravity and traditional limits of ocean sports. When you catch that perfect wave and lift above the surface, there's an indescribable rush that burns within—a fire that keeps you coming back for more. This flame spreads among enthusiasts, creating a community united by their shared love for this revolutionary experience on water.
Stoke: The pure joy that emanates from foilers is unmistakable. From first-timers experiencing their initial glide to veterans pushing boundaries, that electric feeling of stoke is universal. "There's nothing like the moment when you're up on foil and everything just clicks," shares Kai Lenny, one of foiling's pioneers. "That feeling of weightlessness and connection with the ocean creates a high that's impossible to describe but instantly recognizable to anyone who's experienced it." This stoke transcends age, background, and skill level—it's the universal language that binds the foiling community together in their shared pursuit of that perfect ride.
Extreme Challenge: With my passion for the Neuroscience of athletics in general, I'm impressed with the level of athletes like Nick Kapule, 23, a very talented high school athlete who is now sponsored and part of the population of foilers going deep into the process for improving the mental training for this fast-growing sport.”
The Evolution of Wave Riding
Imagine surfing at your favorite spot on familiar equipment. You know the lineup well and your technique is refined, allowing you to catch plenty of waves.
In the late 1970s, a successful session at Sunset Beach meant catching just three waves in an hour—an ambitious goal at the time.
Today, everything has changed. A skilled foil rider can surf almost continuously, effortlessly gliding in and out of the lineup without interruption.
"Foiling isn't just another way to ride waves—it's completely reimagined the relationship between human and ocean. When you're on a foil, you're not just riding the wave, you're flying through it. That feeling of gliding above the water, it's the closest thing to true freedom I've ever experienced." — Laird Hamilton
Foiling comes in several forms: using a stand-up paddleboard, a wing sail, being towed in, or paddling traditionally. For the ultimate challenge, there's the downwinder—a technique that significantly increases difficulty and elevates the sport to new heights.
Foiler: Mala'e McElheny, photo by @brentbielmann
The Learning Curve
Getting started typically requires paddling with a stand-up paddle on a narrow board (less than 19" wide). You need to paddle hard and fast enough to connect the foil with the energy of rolling swells. This demands exceptional balance coordinated with upper body paddling movements, while your legs pump the board to engage the foil with the ocean's energy.
The learning process is notoriously difficult. Beginners flail so dramatically that concerned onlookers calling 911 has become something of a rite of passage in the foiling community.
The extreme physical demands create an incredibly steep learning curve. As one accomplished water athlete confessed: "The fact that I'm still struggling to master this sport despite all the pain and frustration seems like the definition of a mental illness."
Yet this same athlete described downwind foiling as the best feeling he's ever experienced—one that motivates him and builds confidence that transfers to everyday life.
"What draws me to foiling is how it forces you to be completely present. There's no room for distraction—one moment of lost focus and you're down. But when everything clicks, when you're in rhythm with the ocean and your board is flying, it's like time slows down. That state of flow is addictive; it's why we keep coming back despite the crashes and frustrations." — John John Florence
The Neuroscience of Foiling
The Limbic System: Our Emotional Memory Bank
Your brain's limbic system stores every significant water experience you've had. When attempting a challenging foiling maneuver, this system automatically retrieves relevant emotional memories without your awareness. A previous wipeout might trigger tension and hesitation, subtly shifting your body out of optimal position.
This process works both ways—positive memories enhance confidence and fluidity, while negative ones create restrictive patterns. Experienced foilers learn to recognize when these emotional memories activate by noticing physical signs (tensing shoulders, shallow breathing), then implementing techniques to return to a performance-ready state.
The Primitive Response: When Fight or Flight Takes Over
Learning foiling frequently triggers your body's survival mechanism—the sympathetic nervous system. When your brain perceives danger (like an approaching wave section or unstable takeoff), it initiates a cascade: your adrenal glands release epinephrine, your heart rate increases, blood flows to major muscle groups, and glucose floods your bloodstream.
While this response helped our ancestors survive threats, it undermines the precise balance and subtle adjustments foiling requires. Blood diverted from your digestive system and prefrontal cortex means you lose access to fine motor control and advanced decision-making when you need them most. Elite foilers train counter-responses through specific breathing techniques—especially extending the exhale—which activates the parasympathetic nervous system, restoring cognitive function and physical control in challenging conditions.
Rising Above: Performing Above the Line in Foiling
Foiling is extremely challenging, both physically and mentally. The key to success is learning to stay "Above the Line" - a mental state where you're performing optimally instead of reacting from fear or frustration. Here's how to do it:
Step 1: Practice Gratitude (The Foundation)
- What to do: Begin each session by expressing genuine gratitude for being in the water.
- How to do it: Take 3 deep breaths before entering the water and name three things you appreciate about foiling.
- Why it works: This activates your "being present" mindset instead of your fear response.
- Result: You'll feel fully engaged rather than anxious, and the gratitude provides the awareness to focus on the feelings related to what you want to accomplish.
Step 2: Embrace the Process (The Method)
- What to do: Focus on proper technique rather than outcomes.
- How to do it:
- Use "performance breathing" to heighten your awareness of body sensations that signal proper form, tempo, and intensity
- Take shorter, sharper inhales to prepare, then use longer exhales to express the passion you have for completing each movement
- Pay attention to how your feet feel on the board, the resistance of water against the foil, and the subtle shifts in balance
- Break each movement into small steps you can master
- Celebrate small improvements rather than expecting perfection
- Why it works: This keeps you in your "learning brain" instead of your "panic brain" and connects your emotional drive with physical execution
- Result: You'll make steady progress by aligning breath, body awareness, and emotional energy. As you master this technique, you will experience moments of flow and possibly longer sessions of perhaps the best feelings you've ever had.
Step 3: Build Mental Strength (The Mastery)
- What to do: Develop discipline to handle distractions and pressure
- How to do it:
- Set specific, achievable goals for each session
- When you fall, take a moment to breathe before getting back up
- Create a simple mantra to repeat when facing challenging conditions
- Why it works: This builds resilience against the inevitable setbacks
- Result: You'll experience flow states where effort transforms into joy. The mental strength provides the truth of how important this process is to you and how hard you are eager to work to accomplish your goals.
Practical Mental Techniques for Foiling Success
Staying "Above the Line" requires specific mental techniques:
- Recognize your brain state: Notice when your body tenses, breathing becomes shallow, or thoughts turn negative - these are signs you're dropping "Below the Line"
- Reset with breath: Immediately take 3 deep breaths, extending the exhale longer than the inhale to activate your calming system
- Refocus your attention: Direct your focus to something specific (the feeling of your feet on the board, the rhythm of the water) rather than worrying about falling
- Reframe challenges: When you struggle, tell yourself "This is how I get better" rather than "I can't do this"
These practical mental skills, combined with physical training, will help you push through the frustrating learning phase and experience the extraordinary rewards of foiling.
TOOLS FOR STAYING ABOVE THE LINE
Your Brain's Performance Centers
THE DIRECTOR (Your Planning Center - Pre-Frontal Lobe)
What it does for you:
- Helps you see the "big picture" instead of just reacting
- Allows you to adjust your attitude when things get tough
- Keeps you focused on your goals even after falling
How to activate it:
- Before each session, visualize yourself succeeding for 2 minutes
- Set 1-3 specific, achievable goals for your practice
- When frustrated, ask yourself: "What's one thing I can improve right now?"
THE CONTROL CENTER (Your Focus Center - Neo-Cortex)
What it does for you:
- Helps you stay calm and present in challenging conditions
- Builds confidence through mindfulness rather than fear
- Keeps your emotions productive rather than destructive
How to activate it:
- Practice "box breathing" (4-count inhale, hold 4, exhale 4, hold 4) before difficult sections
- When anxious, focus completely on physical sensations rather than thoughts
- Develop a personal pre-foiling routine to center yourself consistently
Summary
Foiling has revolutionized wave riding, allowing continuous surfing rather than catching just a few waves per session. Despite its transformative potential and unparalleled experience, foiling presents an extremely steep learning curve requiring exceptional fitness and mental resilience.
Success depends not only on physical skill but on operating from higher cognitive functions—specifically the Director (pre-frontal lobe) and Control Center (neo-cortex)—rather than succumbing to primitive fight-or-flight responses from the limbic system.
By cultivating physical strength, balance, breathing techniques, and positive mindset practices, riders can overcome learning frustrations and experience the extraordinary flow state that makes foiling so rewarding.
Check the following posts elsewhere here on my website www.bradyates.com: