Introduction

I came to Hawaii in 1965 to learn how to surf. In many ways I have lived my life in reverse. I retired early, lived in Hawaii for three years, and discovered fundamental truths about myself. I learned how to settle down, became aware of my feelings, accepted what is, and realized I need to see the Ocean on a regular basis.

To this day I love weather - the wind, the clouds, and the colors. Living in Pupukea taught me to stop, to truly see, and to appreciate nature's daily light show. The North Shore became my greatest teacher.

Surfing Sunset without a leash was my first lesson in pure focus and attention. The rip currents taught me about life's forces - sometimes you swim against them, but often the wisdom lies in understanding their flow and working with them rather than fighting them.

Surfing when I was sick became a harsh but effective teacher about the importance of maintaining health, while dawn patrol revealed the magic and serenity of early mornings. Each wave, each session, each sunrise offered lessons that went far beyond surfing.

The rhythms of ocean life - watching the weather, reading the waves, understanding the tides - shaped not just how I surfed, but how I learned to live. The Ocean became not just a place to surf, but a constant source of wisdom and renewal.

First Waves: The Beginning

My journey began at Sunset Beach in Hawaii, where the power and rhythm of the waves first taught me about life's natural ebbs and flows. After relocating to Pupukea, Sunset Beach became my training ground. The waves were head high that first day, breaking off the point, and I managed to catch several exhilarating rides all the way to Val’s. These early experiences would later prove invaluable in understanding the nature of anxiety and its management.

Learning the Break: Years of Practice

The next two years were dedicated to honing my craft, acquiring the right equipment, and earning my place in the lineup.

From 1973 to 1975, I dedicated myself to developing as a surfer - focusing on honing my craft and acquiring the proper equipment. Several key events marked my transition into mastering Sunset Beach across its various conditions. Understanding my place in the lineup, I respected BK and other established surfers' dominance of the west peak and closeout sets.

Key milestones during this period:

• Tom Parish began shaping a custom Sean Thomson model surfboard for me
• Jack Shipley invited me to join the Bolt team
• Bernie Baker established the Embassy

These developments launched an intense seven-year period where I caught every major swell that came through. During these early sessions, I gained invaluable lessons about patience, timing, and developing a deep respect for the ocean's natural forces.

These early sessions taught me invaluable lessons about patience, timing, and respect for natural forces.

Note: Detailed lessons from this formative period can be found at the end of this blog below.

Changing Tides: A New Chapter

The transition away from the North Shore lifestyle brought unexpected challenges. Living in town, away from the country air and daily surf sessions, I noticed a shift in my well-being. It was during this time that a fortuitous opportunity arose through my friend Bruce Eliasof, who was departing for Stanford. His parting gift was an introduction to Doc René Tillich, a therapist whose insight would prove transformative.

The Deep Dive: Understanding Anxiety

Through my work with René in the early 1980s, I discovered that anxiety, like waves, follows patterns we can learn to navigate. His straightforward assessment cut through years of uncertainty, offering a simple yet profound choice: medication or breathing techniques. The fight-or-flight response, while natural, requires proper channeling, just as a powerful wave needs the right approach to ride successfully.

Reading the Conditions: Personal Patterns

In my journey to understand and manage anxiety, I discovered that different people experience it in unique ways, much like how every surfer develops their own style. Some find their peace in understanding the concrete details and mechanics, while others connect better with physical sensations. Just as some surfers thrive in crowded lineups while others prefer solitary dawn patrols, anxiety management can be deeply personal - some find solace in solitude, others in community.

The Foundation: Physical Wellbeing

The physical foundations of anxiety management became clear to me over time. Just as a surfer needs to maintain their equipment and physical condition, managing anxiety requires attention to our body's basic needs. Proper hydration proves crucial, as even slight dehydration can trigger anxiety symptoms. Our diet requires careful consideration, particularly regarding sugar intake and energy drinks. Quality sleep, ideally 7-8 hours of uninterrupted rest, forms another cornerstone of anxiety management, much like how proper rest between surf sessions allows for better performance.

The Drop-In: Breathing Techniques

Through years of experience, I developed a breathing sequence that serves as a reliable tool for managing anxiety and preparing for challenging situations. It begins with settle-down breathing, where you stand firmly grounded, like positioning yourself for an incoming wave. The breath moves slowly through your body - four counts in through the nose, expanding the belly, followed by six counts out through the mouth, releasing tension. This pattern repeats three times while affirming your calm state.

Riding the Wave: The Practice

The sequence continues with recovery breathing, mirroring the quick adjustments needed when catching a wave. A quick inhale through the nose, followed by a long, slow exhale through pursed lips, helps steady your heart rate. The open heart breathing phase follows, where you lift your chest slightly on the inhale and relax your shoulders on the exhale, connecting with sensations of strength and confidence. The sequence concludes with a final reset - one deep belly breath, like the moment before dropping into a wave, grounding yourself in the present moment.

Beyond the Break: Continuous Growth

Just as every wave offers a new experience, each encounter with anxiety provides an opportunity for growth and learning. Success comes from developing awareness, proper timing, and knowing when to engage and when to wait. Through my journey from the waves at Sunset Beach to helping others manage their anxiety, I've learned that we often end up teaching what we ourselves most need to learn. Every challenge becomes an opportunity for both personal growth and helping others find their balance in life's constant waves.

Coming Full Circle: The Eternal Practice

The principles of surfing continue to parallel those of anxiety management: awareness of conditions, proper timing, and knowing when to engage and when to wait. Success in both requires developing a reliable toolkit and trusting your instincts about which tools to use in different situations. Through this understanding, we can learn to ride life's waves with grace, confidence, and skill.

The HiLevel Training Program:

The process for preparing to get the job done as something you love to do.

SETTLE DOWN BREATHING:

• Stand with your feet in the sand, shoulder-width apart
• 4 counts inhale through nose, expanding belly
• 6 counts exhale through mouth, releasing tension
• Repeat 3 times while saying "I'm calm and settled”

RECOVERY BREATHING:

• Quick inhale through nose (like sniffing)
• Long, slow exhale through pursed lips
• Feel your heart rate steadying
• Repeat 3 times while thinking "I'm ready"

OPEN HEART BREATHING:

• Inhale while lifting chest slightly
• Exhale while relaxing shoulders
• Feel the sensations–strong, confident–edge control
• Repeat "I surf at my absolute best" 3 times

FINAL RESET

• One final deep belly breath
• Squeeze the rails and, then soften grip
• Feel the feet in the sand
• Say "Ready to rip"

This sequence takes about 60-90 seconds total.

Focus without losing your edge.

That's HiLevel!