A Story For Everyone Over

"Hey Brad, are you surfing?" The voice of Jon Schneller, my close friend and surf-partner. Jon lives on Long Island, works in New York City, and surfs when ever possible. We are talking long distance, Jon is checking in. "Not really," I replied. "How's your weight?" Jon asked. "I'm heavy, over 200," I said with hesitation. "How's your waist," Jon's next question in what seemed to be an informal study. "Bigger than is should be," I admitted. "That's it," Jon concluded as he began to report the results of his study. "It's the same with everybody here, once you hit 50 the weight comes no matter what you eat, the result is you pack it on your waist and surfing becomes a major effort." Who can argue with Jon's findings? For most, the aging process produces a condition called "less surf." You surf less, catch fewer waves, move slower or hang it up. For the committed, the aging process produces a challenge they choose to face each day. In truth, the reality of more or less surf is a decision based on your MENTAL TOUGHNESS, PHYSICAL FITNESS, and COMMITMENT.

Mental Toughness is the ability to relax under pressure and give your best effort.
In this case the pressure is your age.

KENNY BRADSHAW, 46.
"I will continue to do tow-ins on the outer reef until the bitter end. When I can no longer get towed-in, I'll DRIVE the boat."

Physical Fitness is the ability to maintain OVERALL flexibility. Strength and aerobic conditioning are in order for paddling hard.
SURF UP TO YOUR STANDARDS, NO MATTER WHAT YOUR AGE. YES, YOU CAN!

BEN AIPA, 59 (this year!), Amateur, Pro, Coach, Mentor, Guru to Hawaii Surfing: "Ten years ago, I started to become more conscious of my diet. I eliminated meat, ate small amounts of chicken and fish and supplemented my diet with a good vitamin program. In the process my weight went from 235 to 195. Today I have the same energy level that I had when I was 25. My present discipline has enabled me to maintain my stoke for surfing, for my shaping and for my life."

Commitment is the ability to follow through on your decision to keep surfing with the appropriate choices.
Hey…Keep it simple, just surf.

JEANNIE CHESSER, The GranDame of Surfing at the Ala Moana Bowl: "I surf Bowls every morning. I feel that I have an OBLIGATION to start each day with the feeling of accomplishment, physical release and mental clarity that I get from surfing. Surfing Bowls allows me to maintain the energy I need to compete against much younger surfers."

LINDA LEGRANDE, Secretary in the Athletic Department at Honolulu's Punahou School: "I just hit the big 50 and I like to be the first one to paddle out at Canoe's. My sessions leave me feeling energized, rejuvenated and ready to take it all on. I'm a better worker, wife, mother and friend and a whole lot more fun to be around."

GREG ABROSE, Ocean Journalist Extraordinaire for the Honolulu Star Bulletin: "I moved to the mainland two years ago. Surfing every morning at Ocean Beach and Steamer Lane is my way of staying in tune with the sport I love. To handle the cold, especially in the winter, I think about how much pride I have in maintaining my skills."

ED SEARFOSS, Owner, President Emeritus, Country Surfboards: "I paddle out each day at dawn to surf Kammieland. This time is my time; it provides me with a peaceful meditation that sets the tone for my day. Ask anyone who has ever worked for me, my morning sessions make a difference. With it, I can hold the lid on at least 'till the afternoon. Without it, anything can happen."

A Summary:
The decision of more or less surf is not a question of right and wrong. (Although, when I told Ben Aipa that I had replaced surfing with windsurfing he shook his head and responded, "I'm sorry." Hey, hard core is hard core.) The decision has more to do with the issue of how you respond to the challenges in your life and the importance of staying physically active. Reevaluate your decision, what will it be… more or less surf?

MARK RICHARDS, 4 Time World Champion, Chairman of the Board- SurfingWorld Wide, said it best: "I continue to surf because it is an extension of who I am. Surfing has provided a good life for my family and me. Gone are the days when surfing dominated my life. However, (he said with a smile), I'm much easier to live with if I get my dawn patrol session in each day. After 42 years the thrill of riding a wave has not diminished. Surfing has kept me thinking and feeling young."